Hello All,
We’ve had another great week with our March volunteers, albeit somewhat dominated by our impromptu friction fire-lighting masterclass yesterday afternoon. Just goes to show you, you never know what you might learn at Wild Sherwood!
Besides our training session yesterday, our volunteers this week returned to Sherwood Forest to continue work on a northern boundary hedge; this time, mulching the newly cleared area to prevent bracken and weed regrowth. Tuesday saw us putting the finishing touches to our birch clearance at Clumber Park, helping maintain the area of boggy heathland supporting a local Great-Crested Newt population. Our session at Rufford on Wednesday put an end to our tree work for the year, holding off now until the autumn to allow for regrowth and nesting.
A selection of photos from the week are below, with the rest in the usual place on our Facebook page at www.facebook.com/wild.sherwood. Be sure to check out those of our group trying their hand at the bow-drill, one of the most reliable forms of friction fire-lighting.




So why does friction fire-lighting remain the holy grail of bushcraft and survival skills? Not only is it a great signal when in need of rescue, but it helps makes water safe to drink, food safe to eat and, sometimes most importantly, it bolsters moral and positive thinking. Speaking from personal experience, when you know you can create fire, the world of bushcraft really opens up. There really is nothing like seeing the look on someone’s face when they achieve it for the first time.
As with the majority of bushcraft, the only way for the old techniques to survive is to pass them on. So, here’s the second of our Wild Sherwood Basics – friction fire-lighting.
Wild Sherwood Basics: Bow-Drill Friction Fire-Lighting (Part 1)
First, select a dry piece of wood from which to carve your spindle and hearth (base-board). By using the same piece of wood for both parts, you can be sure that the moisture content of each is the same, which means that they will both be consumed at an equal rate. Another school of thought is that your spindle should be carved from a hardwood, such as oak or birch; while your spindle should be of a softwood, like pine. I’ve had it work the opposite way round as well, just make sure it’s dry. You can store these pieces in an airing cupboard or near a fire to really dry them out.
Now, you need to carve your spindle. It should end up around 8 inches long, no more than an inch thick, and carved to a tapering point at one end with a shallow dome at the other. Your hearth should be carved into a flat board, around 3/4 inch thick and wide enough to comfortably accommodate your spindle.
You should next select you bow and bearing block. These can both be of green (living or fresh) wood, as the moisture content is not important. In fact, it’s better to have a bearing block of green wood, as the water content will help minimise unwanted friction. Your bow should be a slightly springy length of curved wood, roughly 2-3 feet long. You should carve indents in each end of the bow from which to secure a piece of slack string, cord, or strong natural fibre. The bearing block can be a piece of split wood, comfortable to hold and 2-3 inches wide. It will need an indent carving in the flat side into which the pointed end of your spindle will rest. Now carve a similar indent into the centre of your hearth, into which the rounded end of the spindle will sit.
Our volunteers are soon to get their chance to try this from scratch at their bushcraft training course next week. Part 2, covering the technique itself, will follow over the next few weeks. If you’re going to have a go yourself, spend some time on the preparation above, it really is the most important part!
Bye for now,
Matt (Project Officer)